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Recipes

Recipes I make enough to write down.

Honey Dill Roast Chicken#

Roast chicken might be my favorite food. I make one once or twice a week. I love making two because the leftovers become chicken salad and lunches. The brine will fit two chickens if you have a large enough container. It is especially nice to roast the chickens over vegetables so the whole meal is ready at once.

The honey caramelizes and creates a fond that is not particularly useful for a jus or pan sauce. If that is your jam, omit the honey from the brine.

You can do this in one day. Put the chicken in the brine in the morning, then cook it straight from the brine for dinner. It benefits from more time, though. I prefer a 24-hour brine, followed by the optional 12-hour dry brine if I have planned far enough ahead.

The brine is deliberately flexible. Each fresh herb shifts the flavor slightly, but most of the time I use whatever is in the fridge and starting to wilt.

Ingredients#

Chicken and brine

  • 1–2 spatchcocked chickens, about 3.5 lb each
  • 4 L water
  • 1 cup Diamond Crystal kosher salt for a 12-hour brine, or 3/4 cup for a 24-hour brine
  • About 1/2 cup honey (omit if you want to make a jus or pan sauce)
  • 1 large handful dill
  • 2–3 shallots, sliced
  • 1 large handful of whatever herbs are lying around in the fridge, such as chives, parsley, cilantro, oregano, thyme, rosemary, or sage
  • 1 tbsp black peppercorns
  • 1 lemon, sliced into rounds
  • 4–6 garlic cloves, lightly smashed

For cooking

  • Olive oil
  • Diamond Crystal kosher salt
  • Chopped vegetables (optional)

Brine#

  1. Combine the water, salt, honey, dill, shallots, herbs, peppercorns, lemon, and garlic in a large container. Stir until the salt and honey dissolve.
  2. If you are patient, heat the brine to extract more flavor from the aromatics. Let it cool completely before adding the chicken.
  3. Fully submerge the chicken and refrigerate for 12 hours if you used 1 cup of salt, or 24 hours if you used 3/4 cup. I prefer the latter because it gives the aromatics more time to penetrate.

Optional dry brine#

Remove the chicken from the brine, pat it completely dry, season it with kosher salt, and refrigerate it uncovered for about 12 hours. This requires more patience and planning, and IMO it does not make a huge difference.

Cooking#

  1. Heat the oven to 425°F. Set a rack over a baking sheet. If you want a full meal, put chopped vegetables underneath the rack.
  2. If you skipped the dry brine, remove the chicken from the wet brine and pat it completely dry. Coat the chicken heavily with olive oil and give it a generous seasoning of kosher salt. If you dry brined it, remember that it is already salted. Place it on the rack.
  3. Roast until the breast reaches 150°F, about 45 minutes.
  4. Remove the chicken from the oven and let it rest for 15 minutes.

Carving#

Use a sharp, heavy knife. Remove each thigh, then cut cleanly through the joint between the drumstick and thigh. Cut through the center of the breastplate to separate the two sides, then cut diagonally through the bone to divide each breast in half. The chef gets the wings.

Maple Syrup Vanilla Ice Cream#

This is a simple, very tasty ice cream recipe. The only added sugar is 1/3 cup of maple syrup, plus any sugar in the optional dark chocolate, so it is something we feel great serving our kids. You can freeze it to firm it up, but four to six people will happily finish the whole batch as a weekend dinner dessert straight out of the ice cream maker.

Ingredients#

  • 2 cups heavy cream
  • 1 cup whole milk
  • 1/3 cup maple syrup
  • 4 large egg yolks
  • Pinch of salt
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract, or seeds from 1 vanilla bean

Optional variations

  • Chocolate: 6 oz semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
  • Espresso: 1 freshly pulled espresso shot, about 30 ml
  • Eggnog: 1 cinnamon stick, 4 whole cloves, 6 allspice berries, and 1/2 tsp nutmeg

Method#

  1. Heat the dairy. Combine the cream, milk, and maple syrup in a saucepan. If using a vanilla bean, add the seeds now. Heat to 170°F, then remove from the heat.
  2. Add any optional flavors. For chocolate, add the chopped chocolate and stir until melted and smooth. For espresso, stir in the fresh shot. For eggnog, add the cinnamon, cloves, and allspice.
  3. Temper the yolks. Whisk the yolks and salt in a bowl. While whisking constantly, slowly pour in about 1 cup of the hot dairy mixture.
  4. Cook the custard. Pour the tempered yolks back into the saucepan. Cook gently, stirring constantly, until the custard reaches 160–162°F and coats the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat.
  5. Strain and chill. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. If using vanilla extract, stir it in now. Cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until the custard reaches 36–40°F, usually 4 hours or overnight. If making eggnog, stir in the nutmeg before chilling.
  6. Churn and freeze. If making eggnog, add one final pinch of nutmeg before churning. Churn until the ice cream reaches a soft-serve texture, around 20–25°F. Transfer to a container and freeze for at least 4 hours.

Soboro Beef#

This is a fast, deeply savory beef-and-rice dinner. It serves four.

Adapted from Soboro Beef by Tadashi Ono and Harris Salat for Bon Appétit.

Ingredients#

  • 2 tsp vegetable oil
  • 1 lb ground beef chuck, preferably 20% fat
  • 1/4 cup sake
  • 1/4 cup mirin
  • 2 tbsp soy sauce
  • 2 scallions, chopped
  • Cooked white rice, for serving

Method#

  1. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat.
  2. Add the beef and cook, stirring and breaking it into small pieces, until browned and nearly cooked through.
  3. Add the sake and cook until it has almost completely evaporated.
  4. Add the mirin and soy sauce. Continue cooking until the pan is almost dry.
  5. Add the scallions, toss to combine, and serve over white rice.

Chicken Noodle Soup#

Roasting the chicken first gives this soup the depth of a stock that has cooked all day. I usually leave the vegetables out of the roasting pan because too much browning can dominate the broth, but follow your taste. Cook the noodles separately, especially if you plan to eat the soup throughout the week.

Ingredients#

  • 1 whole chicken
  • 4 carrots, roughly chopped
  • 4–6 celery stalks, roughly chopped
  • 2 white onions or 3 shallots, roughly chopped
  • 12 radishes or 1 fennel bulb, roughly chopped (optional)
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • Kosher salt
  • Water, light stock, or dry white wine, for deglazing
  • Noodles of your choice

Method#

  1. Heat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
  2. Break the chicken down into pieces. Remove the backbone, legs, and wings, leaving the breast crown intact. Put the chicken pieces in a roasting pan, coat them with olive oil, and season generously with salt. For a deeper roasted-vegetable flavor, add a layer of carrots, onion, and celery beneath the chicken.
  3. Roast for 45–60 minutes, until the chicken is browned and cooked through.
  4. Transfer the chicken to a large bowl or tray. Remove the skin and set it aside to crisp separately if you want a garnish. Pull off the breast meat, shred it, and reserve it for the end.
  5. Deglaze the roasting pan with water, light stock, or white wine, scraping up everything stuck to the bottom. Pour the liquid into a large pot. Add the legs, backbone, wings, carrots, celery, onions, and optional radishes or fennel.
  6. Cover with cold water and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook until the vegetables are tender and the meat falls from the bones. Remove the chicken pieces, pull off any usable meat, and discard the bones.
  7. Cook the noodles separately in well-seasoned water. Add noodles to each bowl, then ladle over the broth, vegetables, dark meat, and reserved breast meat. Keep leftover noodles separate so they do not turn to mush.
  8. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Finish with crisp chicken skin, crackers and Tabasco, or an egg yolk and chili crisp.

Immersion Blender Mayonnaise#

This takes about a minute once everything is in the jar. The only real trick is using a jar narrow enough that the egg and lemon juice reach the blades. Because the mayonnaise is uncooked, use a pasteurized egg.

Ingredients#

  • 1 large pasteurized egg
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice, from about 1/2 lemon
  • A splash of your favorite white vinegar; I like Japanese rice vinegar
  • 1 tsp Dijon mustard
  • 1 medium garlic clove, smashed
  • 1 cup avocado oil
  • Kosher salt

Method#

  1. Put the egg, lemon juice, vinegar, mustard, and garlic in the bottom of a wide-mouth Mason jar that just fits the head of your immersion blender. The mixture must reach the blades. If it does not, use a narrower jar or double the recipe.
  2. Pour the oil on top and let everything settle for 15 seconds.
  3. Place the blender head flat against the bottom of the jar and turn it on high. Do not pulse or move it at first.
  4. Once mayonnaise begins to form, slowly tilt and lift the blender until all the oil is emulsified.
  5. Season with salt. Refrigerate immediately in an airtight container and use within 3–4 days.

Focaccia#

This is a very thick, high-hydration focaccia. The full 680 g of water gives you about 87% hydration. I usually start with less and add the final water only if the dough can take it. For a thinner, more Genovese-style focaccia at roughly 55% hydration, use about 430 g of water total.

Ingredients#

  • 7 g active dry yeast, about 2 tsp
  • 430–680 g water, divided
  • 780 g bread flour
  • 17 g kosher salt
  • About 1 cup olive oil, divided
  • Flaky sea salt
  • Toppings such as onions, rosemary, garlic, or red pepper

Equipment#

  • Stand mixer with a dough hook
  • Half-sheet pan
  • Pastry brush

Method#

  1. Put the yeast in the mixer bowl. Whisk in 120 g warm water, about 100°F, and let it stand for 5 minutes.
  2. Add the flour, kosher salt, and enough room-temperature water to reach your chosen hydration. For the full-hydration dough, start with about 590 g total water, including the water used for the yeast, and hold back the final 90 g.
  3. Mix on low for 1 minute, scraping the bowl as needed so all the flour is hydrated. Mix on medium for 5 minutes.
  4. Cover the bowl with a damp cloth and rest the dough for 10 minutes.
  5. Mix on medium for another 10–15 minutes, until the dough pulls away from the sides and wraps around the hook. If you held back water, add it gradually while mixing and stop if the dough cannot absorb more.
  6. Pour 1/4 cup olive oil into a large mixing bowl and swirl to coat the sides. Transfer the dough to the bowl, using the oil as a moat around it.
  7. Cover and leave in a warm part of the kitchen until doubled in size, about 1–2 hours. The dough is ready when a finger pressed into it leaves a small indentation and springs back slowly.
  8. Lift and fold the dough over itself several times, rotating the bowl 90 degrees after each fold. Do not stretch it to the point of tearing.
  9. Coat a half-sheet pan with 1/4 cup olive oil and transfer the dough to it. Stretch it toward the edges, rest for 10 minutes, then stretch again until it fills the pan.
  10. Cover and let rise for about 45 minutes, or until the dough fills the height of the pan. Heat the oven to 450°F with a rack in the middle.
  11. Prepare any toppings. For onions, thinly slice about 4 cups and cook them in 2 tbsp olive oil with rosemary until fragrant but not completely soft.
  12. Press stiff fingers throughout the dough to dimple it and pop any oversized air bubbles.
  13. Whisk together 1/4 cup olive oil, 2 tbsp water, and 1 tsp kosher salt. Brush the emulsion over the dough and let it pool in the dimples. Add the toppings and flaky salt.
  14. Bake for about 23 minutes. Check after 15 minutes and rotate the pan if it is browning unevenly.
  15. Lift the focaccia from the pan with spatulas and transfer it to a cooling rack.

Standing Prime Rib Roast#

Plan on one rib for every two to three people. Starting in a cold oven and finishing with a very hot sear gives you a rosy interior and a browned crust without complicated timing.

Ingredients#

  • 1 standing rib roast, about 1 bone for every 2–3 people
  • Neutral cooking oil
  • Kosher salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper

Method#

  1. If you can plan ahead, wrap the roast in cheesecloth and let it dry in the refrigerator for up to a week.
  2. Coat the roast with oil. Season generously with kosher salt and black pepper, pressing the seasoning into the meat.
  3. Set the roast on a rack over a baking sheet. Insert a temperature probe into the center, avoiding the bones, and put the roast in a cold oven.
  4. Set the probe alarm to 118°F, then turn the oven to 250°F. Depending on the size of the roast, this should take around 3 hours.
  5. Remove the roast and let it rest for at least 30 minutes while you make the Yorkshire pudding, if using.
  6. Turn the oven as high as it will go. Return the roast to the oven for 10–15 minutes, until the outside is deeply browned.
  7. Carve immediately. Remove the ribs and fat cap, then cut the roast into thick slabs.

Yorkshire Pudding#

Ingredients

  • 4 tbsp beef drippings, divided
  • 4 large eggs
  • 2 cups whole milk
  • 280 g all-purpose flour

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 450°F with a large cast-iron skillet inside.
  2. Blend 2 tbsp beef drippings with the eggs, milk, and flour until smooth.
  3. When the skillet is hot, add the remaining 2 tbsp drippings and swirl to coat. Pour in the batter.
  4. Bake for 30 minutes without opening the oven door.

Pancakes#

Makes at least 12 large pancakes.

Ingredients#

  • 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 2 tbsp granulated sugar
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 1 tsp kosher salt
  • 2 large eggs, separated and at room temperature
  • 2 cups buttermilk
  • 2 tsp vanilla extract
  • 1 stick butter, melted, plus more for the pan
  • Blueberries or sliced bananas (optional)
  • Maple syrup, for serving

Method#

  1. Sift the flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, and salt together.
  2. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks, buttermilk, vanilla, and melted butter.
  3. Fold the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients with a flexible spatula. Do not overmix. A few floury lumps are fine.
  4. Whisk the egg whites until foamy, then gently fold them into the batter until no slippery streaks remain.
  5. Refrigerate the batter for 15 minutes.
  6. Melt a little butter in a nonstick pan over medium heat. Cook the pancakes in 1/3-cup portions, adding blueberries or bananas if you like.
  7. Flip when bubbles rise to the surface and the edges begin to set. Cook the second side until browned. Serve with maple syrup.

Chocolate Oat Pancakes#

These are easy, instant, gluten-free, low-sugar, and high-protein. We make them at least three times a week for both weekday and weekend breakfasts. This is a doubled recipe, which should feed four people with leftovers.

Ingredients#

  • Neutral oil, for the griddle
  • 2 cups rolled oats, certified gluten-free if needed
  • 1 cup cottage cheese
  • 4 large eggs
  • A glug of maple syrup
  • A glug of vanilla extract or vanilla syrup
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • 1/4 cup dark chocolate chips
  • Butter, for finishing

Method#

  1. Heat a griddle over medium heat and coat it lightly with oil. Turn the heat to low when you are ready to cook.
  2. Put the oats, cottage cheese, eggs, maple syrup, vanilla, and baking soda in a blender. Blend until smooth.
  3. Stir in the dark chocolate chips.
  4. If you have time, let the batter sit for 10 minutes to thicken.
  5. Use an ice cream scoop or measuring cup to portion about 1/4 cup of batter per pancake onto the griddle.
  6. Cook until the pancakes are bubbling and the top-facing side looks mostly set, then flip.
  7. Add a little butter beneath each pancake and swirl the pancakes through it. Cook for another few minutes, until the second side is nicely browned, then remove from the griddle.

Smoked BBQ Ribs#

Serves four.

Inspired by Heath Riles’s competition rib method.

Ingredients#

  • 2 large St. Louis–cut rib racks, at least 3 lb each
  • Yellow mustard
  • Your favorite rib rub
  • Butter
  • Brown sugar
  • BBQ sauce
  • Water, for spritzing
  • Heavy-duty aluminum foil
  • Charcoal and smoking wood

Preparation#

  1. Square up the racks by removing the skirt meat and any remaining spare-rib section. Remove the membrane from the bone side.
  2. About 15 minutes before cooking, coat the ribs lightly with mustard and apply a generous layer of rib rub.

Smoking#

  1. Bring the smoker to a steady 275°F using charcoal and wood chunks.
  2. Put the ribs in the smoker, arranging them as compactly as possible, and smoke for 2 hours.
  3. Once the rub has set into a dry bark, spritz the ribs with water. Continue spritzing about every 30 minutes, unless you are using a water pan and the ribs already look moist.
  4. Lay each rack meat-side down on a large sheet of foil over butter, brown sugar, and a little BBQ sauce or additional rub. Wrap tightly.
  5. Return the wrapped ribs to the smoker. Begin checking after 30 minutes, then again at 45 and 60 minutes, until the thickest meat is around 202°F and the ribs feel tender.
  6. Remove the ribs from the foil, glaze with BBQ sauce, and return them to the smoker unwrapped for 10 minutes to set the sauce.
  7. Rest briefly, then slice between the bones and serve.

Nana’s Lemony Parsley Stuffing#

This makes a large batch based on 12 cups of seasoned sourdough breadcrumbs. The breadcrumb mix already contains parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme, so taste as you go before adding more salt or herbs.

Ingredients#

  • 12 cups dried, seasoned sourdough breadcrumbs
  • 15 tbsp butter, plus more for the baking dish
  • 3 medium onions, finely chopped
  • 8–9 celery stalks, finely chopped
  • 3–4 cups flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
  • Zest of 6 lemons
  • Juice of 4 lemons, plus more to taste
  • 1 tsp ground nutmeg
  • 3/4 tsp cayenne
  • 4 tsp kosher salt to start
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 4–5 cups warm chicken or vegetable stock

Method#

  1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Butter one large baking dish or two medium dishes.
  2. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and celery with a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and lightly golden, about 12–15 minutes.
  3. In a very large bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, parsley, lemon zest, nutmeg, cayenne, 4 tsp kosher salt, and several grinds of black pepper.
  4. Add the cooked onions and celery and toss until evenly distributed.
  5. Add the juice of 4 lemons, toss well, and taste. Add another half or whole lemon now if you want it brighter, or save that final hit for after baking.
  6. Add the warm stock about 1/2 cup at a time, tossing gently after each addition. Stop when the stuffing is evenly moist and clumps softly when squeezed, but is not wet or soupy. Depending on the breadcrumbs, you may not need all the stock.
  7. Taste and adjust the salt, pepper, and lemon. If your stock is low-sodium, the stuffing may need 5–6 tsp salt in total.
  8. Spread the stuffing evenly in the prepared dish and cover tightly with foil.
  9. Bake for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for another 20–25 minutes, until the top is lightly crisp and the edges are beginning to brown.
  10. Right before serving, squeeze another half or whole lemon over the top if you want a final sharp hit of citrus.

Nana’s Apple Tart#

The important things are keeping the pastry very cold, using very little sugar in the crust, and saving most of the glaze for after the tart comes out of the oven. This makes one 12–14-inch free-form tart.

Ingredients#

Butter pastry

  • 2 cups (280 g) all-purpose flour, very cold
  • 1/4 tsp kosher salt; use less if your butter is salted
  • 1–2 tbsp granulated sugar (optional)
  • 2 sticks (8 oz or 225 g) very cold butter, preferably unsalted
  • 8–10 tbsp ice water, as needed

Apples

  • 2 lb Granny Smith apples, about 3–4 medium apples
  • A squeeze of lemon juice (optional)

Butter glaze

  • 12 tbsp (6 oz) butter, softened
  • 2/3 cup granulated sugar
  • 2 tbsp honey
  • 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice

Optional finish

  • Powdered sugar

Make the pastry#

  1. Chill the mixing bowl and flour if possible. Everything should be very cold.
  2. Mix the flour, salt, and optional sugar.
  3. Grate or finely shred the cold butter into the flour, tossing as you go to keep the pieces coated.
  4. Cut and toss the mixture briefly, leaving plenty of butter shards and some pea-sized pieces.
  5. Add 4 tbsp ice water and toss. Continue adding water 1 tbsp at a time, using as little as possible, until the dough holds together when squeezed. Keep it dry rather than sticky.
  6. Turn the dough onto a floured surface and press and fold it a few times to bring it together.
  7. Form a 6-inch disc, wrap tightly, and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, ideally overnight.

Make the glaze#

Beat the softened butter, sugar, honey, and lemon juice until smooth. Cover and leave at room temperature if you are assembling the tart the same day.

Assemble and bake#

  1. Heat the oven to 425°F with a rack in the lower third. Line a sheet pan with parchment.
  2. Peel the apples if you like, then core and slice them about 1/8 inch thick. Toss with a little lemon juice if desired.
  3. Roll the dough into a 12–14-inch circle about 1/4 inch thick. Transfer it to the prepared sheet pan.
  4. Arrange the apples in overlapping circles, leaving a 1 1/2–2-inch border.
  5. Dot about one-third of the glaze over the apples, reserving the rest for after baking.
  6. Fold the pastry border over the apples, pleating as you go.
  7. Bake on the lower rack for about 45 minutes, until the crust is deeply golden and the apples are bubbling and tender. If the pastry puffs, quickly vent it with the tip of a knife or a fork. Rotate once near the end if it is browning unevenly.
  8. Cool until warm or at room temperature. Brush the remaining glaze over the apples and, if you like, a little over the crust.
  9. Dust with powdered sugar just before serving, if using.